Lake Superior Magazine

Lake Superior Journal
by James R. Marshall


Jim Marshall

Some Journeys
to Remember

It was a treat to share the history
of this fabulous country
with honestly surprised visitors

As summer fades, another crop of younger folks have added the lore of our famous Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness to their developing thoughts and skills.

Reflections on the undoubted enthusiasm of this year’s groups make me nostalgic. A few (or more) decades ago as a guide through my former business, Chippewa Camping Outfitters in Duluth, Minnesota, I’ve been privileged to listen to those young people in Grand Marais, Ely and other access points on the north side of Lake Superior. It was a treat to share the history of this fabulous country with honestly surprised visitors.

Jim Marshall's Chippewa Outfitters
The author strides purposefully during the early ’60s when he owned an outfitters business. JAMES R. MARSHALL COLLECTION



Historically, this area first absorbed human visitation thousands of years ago. For many of the young adventurers on my trips, even the story of the fur industry was new for them. They heard tales of those colorful Canoe Country characters whose seasonal searches for mink, beaver and other wildlife brought a level of wealth inaccessible to them in other ways. When my band of canoeists realized that they literally followed ancient trails and portages, they wore wide-eyed expressions.

Most of us have forgotten the early years of our own lives when just about anything we were able to do was “new.” What a pleasure to watch this curiosity over and over in those youngsters and what a pleasure to learn that those memories do remain with some.

When I was taking groups of young people (frequently Boy and Girl Scout troops), the size of the groups varied but once under way, the necessary activities spread out among the whole gang.

During the course of our trips, the young visitors gradually realized the fascinating water travel was interrupted somewhat regularly with portages, the connecting paths between the lakes. They learned that working together works best.

Canoeing in the BWCAW.
Canoes and confidence go together on a boundary waters trip for young people who discover skills and stamina they didn’t know they had. JAMES R. MARSHALL COLLECTION



The first time they encountered something alive - be it a squirrel or chipmunk or the dignity of a deer - it was fun to watch them stop or step back as they realized that these animals had little fear of them.

When a first afternoon tapered into late day, it was time to find a campsite and to get the tents up. Again, responsibilities were spread out, and the youngsters realized the canvas ceiling over their heads (along with their safety and comfort) was in their own hands. After a most appreciated meal, some usually tried evening fishing, while others gathered firewood for the late evening fire. The fires were a time for singing and storytelling - something as you know, dear readers, I much enjoy.

I remember a closeness developed among the group members that defied explanation, and it grew as the trip progressed.

Apparently, a former Scout who traveled on some of those trips recalls similarities in her experience.

“It was wonderful, spine-tingling,” Mona Knutson says of those trips. “We were strong girls. I surprised myself every day that I had stamina, that I could pull my weight and I could pull my weight in a group.”

Dorothy Molter, the "Root Beer Lady"
Encounters with independent souls like the late Dorothy Molter, the boundary waters’ “Root Beer Lady,” provided role models. JAMES R. MARSHALL COLLECTION



I often saw this growth in my young charges. A very real sense of pride developed, for example, as the maps confirmed that they did indeed travel a significant distance each day.

As the days went by on these trips, rain and wind became just another happening, which I felt the young people knew was part of this incredible means of travel. Mona’s observations said that feeling was true. “Even the bad days were good days.”

At the end of the journeys, these fine groups of Voyageurs had experiences they would never forget of the time spent together. Some, it turned out, would never return, while others planned a series of trips to the Canoe Country as a special new way of life. All of them, I hope, carried away new-found abilities, lifelong friendships and perhaps, as with Mona, something to pass on to the next generations.

“I have three grandchildren right now and I sing them my Girl Scout songs,” Mona says. “We sang in harmony and rounds. I was so blown away that I could remember those songs.”

And I am happily blown away, too.

LSM

A selection of Jim Marshall’s columns of lake lore and his inland sea voyages has been published as Lake Superior Journal: Views from the Bridge by Lake Superior Port Cities Inc. Follow this link for more information.


Feedback: jrm@lakesuperior.com 
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