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Welcome to the Big Lake

The hookby Konnie LeMay, editor

Be Ye a Pirate of the Inland Sea

Arrrgh! Why do pirates say that so often? I’ve pondered such points lately because we’re about to have a harbor full of tall-masted sailing ships in Duluth this summer.

There will be activities and ship viewing and lots of pirate-related side shows, including nightly performances of the “Pirates of Penzance” in Bayfront Festival Park during the Tall Ships® Duluth 2010.

So I’ve been pondering how an old-time pirate of the Inland Seas might differ from those better-publicized pirates of the Caribbean.

A Lake Superior pirate might say, “Arrrgh, then” or “Arrrgh, ehhh” or, more likely, “Uff Da-rrrgh.”

A freshwater marauder would probably look a lot less like Johnny Depp and a lot more like Louie Anderson, less of a scalawag than a rollypolawag.

Konnie LeMay

And that hand gaff - just a strip of duct tape and you’re hooked. Of course, any self-respecting Lake pirate would have a specially crocheted “hook” cozy (call it a mitten) and a screeching gull on his shoulder - a gull named Ole, not Polly, as in “Ole want a French fry?”

Say, you often see a bird on a pirate’s shoulder, don’t you? If parrots are anything like gulls, I understand from whence comes the “Arrrgh!” Two minutes with a gull on my shoulder and I’d be saying ewww or arrrgh or uff da-rrgh and “Get this gull off me!”

Gulls aside … and I do love them from afar … the events surrounding the Tall Ships festival promise to be a lot of fun. We’ve got details of the festival, along with profiles of the ships that will be here, in our special feature this issue.

These vessels also bring a load of history to our shores. While most of the eight slated to arrive in Duluth in July are replicas of salt seafarers, the sweetwater seas of the Great Lakes have a long history of such ships. I was lucky enough to get a ride on the U.S. Brig Niagara when it last came to port in 2008.

It was a beautiful, breezy Lake Superior day with blue on blue - the robin’s egg blue of the sky and the deeper indigo of the water. Though the deck was packed with visitors as well as the professional and the training crews for the ship, you could still get the sense of moving with only the sounds of a modest but muscular wind snapping the lines against the masts, the shaking out of the hoisted sails and the hull splitting the waters beneath us.

We have some very short videos on our website taken on the Niagara that day. It gives some idea of the sounds and motion of the ship.

Captain Walter RybkaThe smells, the sounds and the touch of the wind proved what the Niagara’s Captain Walter Rybka told me that day when I asked: What is the importance of building these historic replicas that can actually sail on the water?

“A ship that sails and one that doesn’t is the difference between a live horse and a stuffed one,” he said. Sure, you can explain the points of a horse by looking at a picture or by contemplating a stuffed version, but can you truly express the thrill of a mane-tossing stallion galloping across an open plain?

A boat comes alive, the captain was explaining, only when it glides, plows and occasionally bucks against the waves. Like the owner of a spirited horse, you never know exactly all of its moves.

Likewise, I think, the crews of these ships, which rarely make it to our northernmost Great Lake, do not truly know the waters of Lake Superior without trying to cross it in their sailing vessels. Our Lake, too, must be experienced live.

So we will have a summer of delightful make-believe with pirates (the Hollywood kind) and also a summer of discovery.

I can’t wait to get down to the waterfront to enjoy the festival park and to chat with the incoming crews about their new acquaintance with Lake Superior.

Yes, the thought of seeing these tall-masted ships come into port and tie up in our harbor … why it just shivers me timbers.

Konne LeMay, editor
Address e-mail to kon@lakesuperior.com

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