1 of 8
Two Harbors, Minnesota
Bayfront access is one charm of Two Harbors, Minnesota, where the Two Harbors Kayak Festival is held each year. This year it is August 5-7. Photo by Janelle Jones, Two Harbors Area Chamber of Commerce2 of 8
332trvlmedia
3 of 8
Rita Schluneger of Moosecellaneous Gifts
4 of 8
Two Harbors Lighthouse
5 of 8
John Gregor & Val Doherty of Waterfront Gallery
6 of 8
The Depot Museum
7 of 8
Mel Sando of Lake County Historical Society
8 of 8
An art festival along Highway 61 through town
written and photographed by Bob Berg
Standing inside the restored pilothouse from the Frontenac iron ore freighter, Mel Sando stretches out his arm and points through the window to Lake Superior.
“This is our draw - right here,” says the director of the Lake County Historical Society.
He was giving a tour of the 1892 Two Harbors Lighthouse that still shines as a private aid to navigation. The pilothouse is on the lighthouse grounds at Agate Bay. Mel would love to say that tourists visit Two Harbors to see its museums, but “the truth is, they’re attracted to the waterfront. It’s the lake. It’s why we all live here.
“The single most popular thing in Two Harbors is the breakwall,” he says. Watching huge freighters pull into the harbor in Agate Bay is free and fun for families.
In fact, ask most Two Harbors residents what visitors should not miss and the waterfront is likely to come up. This small city offers a range of shops, a nice trail system, a kayak festival and fine museums. Grandma’s Marathon and NorthShore Inline Marathon start on the outskirts.
Although it may be the gateway to Minnesota’s North Shore - “It all starts here” is its brand - Two Harbors has its own charms to explore, such as its famous red lighthouse.
Two Harbors, an old railroad and iron ore shipping town, became the state’s first iron ore port in 1884 with completion of the railway from Tower, on the Vermilion Iron Range. Before the city incorporated in 1888, the Ojibway people already hunted and fished around Agate and Burlington bays. The town remains a busy harbor.
As you pull into town from the west, you’ll start seeing cute shops. Those who love kitsch will appreciate the 8-foot rooster outside Weldon’s Gifts. Highway 61, which becomes Seventh Avenue, has lodging, eating and shopping. But this thoroughfare represents only part of the city and quickly takes you out of town. To know Two Harbors, you’ll need to turn south at Waterfront Drive (Sixth Street) and head to the water.
For directions, brochures and maps, one option is Sawtooth Mountain Trading Post, 702 Seventh Avenue, an information center and shop that sells northwoods home decor, souvenirs and paintings. It can even book you a room at Superior Shores Resort & Conference Center.
Or follow Highway 61 to the east end of town to visit the R.J. Houle Information Center and Two Harbors Area Chamber of Commerce. On the grounds is a beautiful wood sculpture by artist Peter Toth, done as a tribute to Native Americans.
Two Harbors fronts Agate Bay, which features Dock No. 1, once the largest iron ore dock in the world, and Burlington Bay farther east. Those who enjoy walking “can park in the Burlington Bay area, get on the Sonju Trail and get down to the waterfront for a short half-hour walk,” suggests Gordy Anderson, the chamber’s president and CEO.
“They get right onto the waterfront and will be right down in the downtown business district.”
The Waterfront
For walking or biking, the Sonju Trail runs from Burlington Bay to near the Depot Museum on Agate Bay. It is Mayor Randy Bolen Jr.’s favorite. “The trail is paved and hugs the shoreline from bay to bay. It’s truly a gem of the North Shore.”
Among his other suggestions, not surprisingly: the waterfront. “Watching a 1,000-foot ship come into Agate Bay from the end of the breakwall is always an exciting time,” he says. “From our historic Depot and our shops, to the railroad docks, from the lighthouse and our breakwall, our waterfront has much to offer.”
Follow Sixth Street to the Depot Museum. History and train fans will enjoy the two locomotives displayed outside: the 1943 Mallet #229, formerly of the Duluth, Missabe and Iron Range Railway and the 1883 3 Spot. Moored in the harbor is the retired and photogenic Edna G., the last coal-fed, steam-powered tug on the Great Lakes. Visit the lighthouse and its bed-and-breakfast inn owned by the historical society. Ascend the stairs of the tower to see interpretive panels, new last year, telling about the history of the lighthouse and the keepers. The society also runs the 3M Museum, which pays tribute to the birthplace of Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing a short distance from the Depot.
Two Harbors, Population 3,277. The name: Two Harbors’ name stems from bordering Agate and Burlington bays. The location: On Highway 61 about 20 miles northeast of Duluth
When you Go
Where to Eat: Betty’s Pies, 1633 Hwy. 61, 877-269-7494. Black Woods Grill & Bar, 612 Seventh Ave., 218- 834-3846, blackwoods.com. Do North Pizzeria, 15 Waterfront Dr., 218-834-3555. Dunnigan’s Pub, 602 First Ave., 218-834-2300. Judy’s Cafe, 623 Seventh Ave., 218-834-4802. Louise’s Place, 19 Waterfront Dr., 218-834-2176. Vanilla Bean Café, 812 Seventh Ave., 218-834-3714, thevanillabean.com.
Where to Stay: AmericInn Lodge & Suites of Two Harbors, 1088 Hwy. 61, 800-634-3444. Burlington Bay Campground, Hwy. 61 and Park Road, 218-834-2021, ci.two-harbors.mn.us. Country Inn of Two Harbors, 1204 Seventh Ave., 218-834-5557. Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast, 1 Lighthouse Point, 888-832-5606, lighthousebb.org. Superior Shores Resort & Conference Center, 1521 Superior Shores Dr., 800-242-1988, superiorshores.com. Voyageur Motel, 1227 Seventh Ave., 218-834-3644, voyageur-motel.net.
Events: Heritage Days, July 7-10, has a parade and other activities. Two Harbors Kayak Festival is August 5-7.
Where to shop: Agate City Rocks & Gifts, 721 Seventh Ave., 218-834-2304, www.agatecity.com. Buddy’s Mercantile, 720 Seventh Ave., 218-834-3303. Lou’s Fish House, 1319 Hwy. 61, 218-834-5254, lousfish.com. Moosecellaneous Gifts, 603 Seventh Ave., 218-834-8111, Sawtooth Mountain Trading Post, 702 Seventh Ave., 218-834-5592. The Oldest Sister, 830 Seventh Ave., 218-834-2909. Sweet Peas, 625 Seventh Ave., 218-834-9215. True Value Hardware, 610 First Ave., 218-834-2222. Waterfront Gallery, 632 First Ave., 218-834-0756, www.waterfront-gallery.com.
Information: R.J. Houle Information Center, 1330 Hwy. 61, 218-834-6200 or 800-777-7384, twoharborschamber.com.
has visitor information, 702 Seventh Ave., 218-834-5592.
A block west of the Depot are a few eating spots. Mayor Bolen loves Do North Pizzeria. Louise’s Place, also on Waterfront Drive, has soups and sandwiches and features handmade quilts. On the corner of First Avenue is Dunnigan’s Pub.
Stop at Waterfront Gallery to see beautiful photographs by co-owners John Gregor and Val Doherty. They have pictures from around the world, but “typically, we concentrate more on Lake Superior imagery,” John says.
Waterfront Gallery stages exhibits showcasing photographers, painters, sculptors and weavers. In an exhibit this fall, “One Special Place,” many Lake Superior photographers will provide one image of their favorite place on the Lake.
Along Highway 61
Back on Highway 61 (Seventh Avenue), stop at The Oldest Sister in the 800 block. It’s packed with gifts, clothing, kitchenware, home decor items and jewelry.
Try the cozy Vanilla Bean, where the oven-baked omelets are memorable and the chicken dumpling soup is thick and tasty. Owned by Jan and Paul Bergman, the Vanilla Bean has great service and also features pan-fried walleye and fresh herring.
At the Superior Hiking Trail Association office and store, hikers will find maps and info about the 277-mile trail stretching from Duluth to Canada’s border along the ridgeline of Lake Superior. (Work continues on the last major gap between Duluth and Two Harbors.) Buy pocket maps or the Guide to the Superior Hiking Trail with mile-by-mile descriptions.
If you think you’ve found Lake Superior agates, show them to the experts at Agate City Rocks and Gifts. The shop has thousands of agates and displays locally made jewelry and artwork.
Across the street, check out Buddy’s Mercantile, a longtime Seventh Avenue store that offers wild rice, jams and jellies, soup mixes, local maple syrup, soaps, candy, old-fashioned toys, Watkins products and local art.
If you’re on Seventh Avenue and wondering where to eat, locals like Black Woods Grill & Bar for steaks and pasta. Judy’s Cafe is a favorite for its homestyle meals and good prices.
Nearby, browse at Sweet Peas, a gift shop and craft mall owned by Katie and Randy Lancaster. Now in its 10th year, it displays the work of many artists - ceramics to stained glass, beadwork to textiles. “Basically, it gives the opportunity for the small guy to have a space,” says Randy.
At the end of the block is the charming Moosecellaneous Gifts, Rita Schluneger’s northwoods-flavored shop that aims to have “a little bit of everything. We have clothing and cards and things that appeal to women, a lot of women things - purses, jewelry, body care.” She also stocks local books, handmade sweaters for youngsters and kitchenware.
Recreational options include Lakeview National Golf Course, where players can see the lake from 14 of 18 holes. Moose visit sometimes.
Lakeview Park on Burlington Bay has a pavilion, benches, old-growth timber. It’s highly recommended, although it’s often overlooked.
Burlington Bay Campground is a scenic spot to spend the right on the shores of the bay. As you head out of town, stop at Lou’s Fish House for smoked fish. And don’t forget a treat at Betty’s Pies about 2 miles out of town.