The Story of Lake Superior’s Golden Treasure

If you’re hunting for gold treasure within the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore this year during its golden anniversary, you won’t find it, unless …

It’s the gold in the riveting eyes of migrating common goldeneye ducks or in a flash from the surprising head feathers of nesting male golden-crowned kinglets.

You may also find gold among the blooming wildflowers – the goldenrod popping up in former farm fields on Sand Island, the yellow pond lily in Stockton Island’s lagoon and the candelabra-like flowers of the rare, elegant groundsel found in Wisconsin only along North Twin Island’s rocky shore.Or come in autumn to treasure the unforgettable golden leaves shimmering among the islands’ forests.

Yes, golden bounty exists on these Wisconsin islands that are also a national treasure. Gold, of course, is much on our minds as 2020 marks the 50th, or golden, anniversary of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. On September 26, 1970, the legislation creating this park was signed into law. I might be biased, of course, having served 33 years here as a ranger and now as the coordinator for this year’s anniversary.

The story of the 22 islands in the Apostle’s archipelago goes back a very, very long time. Well before Congress designated them so, they deserved recognition and preservation.

The story begins nearly a billion years ago, when braided rivers carried heavy loads of sediment northward into the region from ancient mountains near present-day Minneapolis. Over millions of years, more than 2,500 feet of sand and gravel accumulated and eventually became the sandstone bedrock that underlies the islands. In the last 2 million years, continental glaciers covered the area repeatedly. During the Wisconsin Glaciation, about 20,000 years ago, ice filled the Lake Superior Basin from the northeast. It bulldozed the surface and created the landscape that spawned the Apostle Islands. Still today, Lake Superior whittles away and reshapes island shorelines every day.

The first people began living on the islands at least 5,000 years ago. Various groups of Indigenous people lived in hunting, gathering and fishing camps on the islands over thousands of years. The Ojibwe people migrated to the area hundreds of years ago, following a prophesy, and consider this their homeland. They continue to use the natural resources of the Apostle Islands area to sustain their way of life and maintain their cultural connections. The reservations of the Red Cliff and Bad River Bands of Lake Superior Chippewa are on the mainland shores neighboring the islands.

“These islands are part of our American heritage,” President John Kennedy once said. “In a very real sense, they tell the story of the development of this country.”

European explorers, missionaries and fur traders first arrived in the 1600s. Both French and English immigrants operated trading posts in the region.

By the 1850s, immigrants would stream to the area once the locks at Sault Ste. Marie opened Lake Superior to ships from the other Great Lakes. Seven light stations were built around the islands to aid Great Lakes navigation and facilitate westward expansion. Fishermen, loggers, quarrymen and farmers all came to harvest resources, building cabins on even the smallest islands. About that same time, tourists discovered the magic of the region.

Though many island buildings were occupied seasonally, some hardy souls took up permanent residence. In the early 1900s, the community on Sand Island had enough families living there year-round to support a school, a post office, and a cooperative store. The last year-round residents left Sand Island in the 1940s, but several families continue to use seasonal cottages there and on Rocky Island to this day. Madeline Island, one of the 22 Apostles but not part of the Lakeshore, continues to be the only Lake Superior island with a year-round population.

Natural beauty has long been a treasure of the Apostle Islands. Sea caves, cliffs and beaches attracted tourists to the area by the mid- to late 1800s, first by steamboat and then by rail. Sam Fifield, a former lieutenant governor of Wisconsin, opened Camp Stella, the archipelago’s first resort, on Sand Island in 1886.

“Of all the charming spots (on Lake Superior) that gladdens the eye and heart,” Sam wrote, “there are none that equal the magical islands of the Apostle group. How lovely they are, reflecting their brilliant foliage in the glistening waters that kiss their brownstone shores!”

Island resources began to dwindle in the early 1900s. The brownstone quarries were abandoned by 1900. Most lumber mills closed by the late 1920s. Area residents hoped that tourism could help replace the departing jobs. Local Congressman Hubert H. Peavey requested that the National Park Service study the Apostle Islands’ potential as a national park. Landscape architect Harlan Kelsey was sent to evaluate the islands in 1930, but was dismayed at what he found. “What must have been once a far more striking and characteristic landscape of dark coniferous original forest growth,” he reported, “has been obliterated by the axe, followed by fire. The ecological conditions have been so violently disturbed that probably never could they be more than remotely reproduced.”

He recommended against a park.

But Mr. Kelsey was wrong. Island forests regrew and slowly produced a “rewilded” landscape. Only three decades after the idea of a national park in the Apostle Islands was pronounced dead, Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson helped resurrect the proposal. Gaylord promoted establishment of a national recreation area around the Apostle Islands in 1962.

“This is a unique collection of islands,” he said. “There isn’t another collection of islands of this significance within the continental boundaries of the United States. I think it is tremendously important that this collection of islands be preserved.”

Gaylord persuaded President Kennedy to tour the islands by helicopter as part of a national conservation tour in September 1963. Most area residents supported the national lakeshore, but many who owned property within the proposed boundaries opposed it.

After the bill establishing Apostle Islands National Lakeshore was signed by President Richard Nixon in 1970, people who owned land within the boundaries of the park either sold the property to the government outright, or sold the property but retained the right to lease the use of the property for a fixed number of years or for the life of the owner. There are five life leases remaining on Sand and Rocky islands. The families continue to maintain and use the various buildings on those islands.

Some might wonder about the difference between a national lakeshore and a national park. Both are established by an act of Congress and are similarly administered through the National Park Service. Some activities are permitted in national lakeshores that are not in parks. For example, the enabling legislation for Apostle Islands National Lakeshore allows hunting, fishing and trapping within the park, according to regulations set by the state of Wisconsin.

This national lakeshore is enjoyed and admired by about 180,000 to 200,000 visitors each year. The peak season is normally May to October, but during the long cold winter of 2014, more than 135,000 visitors walked across the frozen Lake to the mainland sea caves, turned ice caves from January to March. Diminishing ice cover on the Lake makes this an increasingly rare event.

Devoted to the park, too, are the more than 700 members of Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore (of which I am one). The “Friends” are participating in numerous events to mark the anniversary.

This year is a golden opportunity to visit Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

A special event June 13 marks the anniversary with an open house at Little Sand Bay. The community will gather to dedicate a new National Park Service visitor center within the boundaries of both the national lakeshore and the Red Cliff Reservation. The visitor center and a shelter housing the historic fish tug Twilite were completed in 2019. New outdoor exhibits highlight the history of the Little Sand Bay area, Ojibwe culture and the efforts of residents to eke out a living on the shores of Lake Superior.  

Any trip to the park is not complete without getting to the islands.

Take the Apostle Islands Cruises’ shuttle to Stockton Island and walk on the singing sands of Julian Bay or camp at one of the most beautiful campsites in any national park. Consider cruising to Raspberry or Michigan islands to tour the historic lighthouse keepers’ quarters, marvel at restored gardens, and climb the light towers for spectacular views. Find park rangers and volunteers seasonally at Stockton, Raspberry, Michigan, Sand, Devils, Oak, Manitou and Rocky islands to provide orientation and interpret the islands’ natural and cultural resources.

I started working in the Apostle Islands as a seasonal interpretive ranger in 1983 and was the assistant chief of interpretation from 1992 to 2016. I naturally have a few favorite spots and activities. I love hiking to the mainland sea caves and picnicking at Little Sand Bay. I’m most familiar with Stockton and Raspberry islands, since I supervised the seasonal rangers there for so long. Walking the beach at Julian Bay and climbing the tower to enjoy the view at Raspberry never lose their charm.

Lynne Dominy, Apostle Islands National Lakeshore’s sixth superintendent, looks forward to the anniversary year. “We are very fortunate to be the caretakers of Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and honored to be a part of engaging so many people in celebrating its legacy and future.”

If you decide to visit these treasure islands on a quest for gold, I recommend that you experience an Apostle Islands’ sunrise. Golden light reflects off the surface of the Lake, highlighting beaches, forests and cliffs.

Just as sunrise marks the beginning of a long summer day here, it can also symbolize that 50 years is just the beginning for this golden treasure on Lake Superior.

---

Neil Howk is the 50th anniversary coordinator for this year’s celebration, a position funded through the Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

---

10 Golden Trip Tips

1 Kayak with a professional sea kayaking guide to best prepare for the cold, unpredictable conditions on Lake Superior. For a list of guides, try go.nps.gov/Outfitters.

2 Protect yourself from biting bugs and ticks by wearing long-sleeved or bug shirts, long pants and/or insect repellent when hiking or camping on the islands.

3 Visit one of the park’s seven historic light stations. Park staff are available seasonally at Raspberry, Sand, Devils and Michigan islands to guide tours (fee required).  Apostle Islands Cruises offers regular trips to Raspberry and Michigan islands. See www.apostleisland.com.

4 Make an online reservation to camp on Stockton Island (or other islands) and pitch a tent with a lakefront view. Check at go.nps.gov/ApostleCamping.

5 Thousands of birds migrate through the islands in spring and fall. More than 100 species of birds nest in the park. Binoculars and bird guides always come in handy.

6 Spend time outside at night to experience the magic of the Milky Way splashed across an unbelievably starry sky.

7 Cell phone coverage is unreliable. Paddlers and boaters should carry a marine radio and know how to use it. Weather forecasts are available on marine radio channel 7.  Find more at go.nps.gov/ApostleConditions.

8 Be bear aware. Bears are good swimmers and have been found on all the islands, but commonly on Stockton, Sand and Oak islands. Campers must store food, garbage, cooking materials and toiletries in bear proof lockers provided at each campsite. See go.nps.gov/ApostleSafety.

9 Visit in June to see spectacular wildflowers. Fall colors linger in the islands from late September to late October.

10 If you walk on a beach, be aware that high lake levels mean the beaches are smaller than normal.  Pets must be kept on a leash that is 6 feet or shorter. No time or boat

to get to the islands? You can still find nice beaches on the mainland at Little Sand Bay, Meyers Beach and Frog Bay Tribal National Park on the Red Cliff Reservation.

---

Lakeshore By the Numbers

22 Apostle Islands,(21 in the lakeshore + Madeline)

69,372 acres within the national lakeshore

155 miles of shoreline

59 miles of trails

66 campsites

15 public docks

3 historic brownstone quarries

257 bird species

46 mammal species

49 fish species

25 reptiles/amphibian species

898 plant species

9 historic light towers at …

7 light stations

Billions of stars visible here

---

The Devils Keeper

As a member of the U.S. Coast Guard, Ron Prei was among the crew in 1968 and 1969 who kept the lighthouse on Devils Island from March 15 to January 15. We asked him about duty on one of the most remote of the Apostle Islands.

LSM: What were your duties, and how many Guardsmen were there?

Ron: Our main duty was to ensure that the light was lit. This was from one hour before sunset to one hour after sunrise, and to turn on the fog signal when needed. We were also charged with monitoring the distress radio channel. This only needed to be done out of hours (4 p.m. to 8 a.m.). The out-of-hours work was rotated between all personnel (eight-hour shifts). There were usually four or five people on the island at all times. Each person would be on the island for three weeks, and off the island for one week. The coming and going of personnel was handled out of the Bayfield Coast Guard Station. Their 40-footer would deliver and pick up people coming and going. Other than that, my responsibility was to make sure everything worked. Just about every engine ran on diesel fuel. I had two Onan generators (named Barney and Igor) and one Ford tractor (named Nellie). The generators would run for one full week. At that point, I would switch to the other generator and change the oil in the one I’d just shut down. The Ford tractor would get an oil change twice a year. I also needed to make sure we had enough gas/oil mixture fuel for our lawn mower and our outboard motor. In the spring and fall, I needed to keep our fuel oil furnace running. We also had a fuel oil hot-water heater. Like I said, just about everything ran on fuel oil. The Coast Guard cutter Woodrush delivered a few thousand gallons of fuel oil. The water we used came right out of the Lake. There were two 1,000-gallon holding tanks in the basement of our house that I needed to keep full. This water was used for everything from cooking, to bathing, to drinking, and everything in between.

 LSM: What are your fondest memories of the island (both the place itself and maybe your work)

Ron: When I did not have to stand watch, there was a lot of free time on the island. Back then, there was a company call Heathkit. They would sell electronic equipment unassembled. So I ordered a color TV, and received a box with a million small parts. I took said parts out to Devils Island and started assembling circuit boards. After I used up all of these parts, I took the circuit boards home, put the TV together, and gave it to my parents. Their first color TV! Another highlight of my work there was when In January 1969, USCG cutter Woodrush was unable to get us off the island due to the harsh winter and ice up. In the end, we were finally removed by a Coast Guard helicopter from Traverse City, Michigan, and delivered to Bayfield. It was pretty exciting – my first and only helicopter ride!

 LSM: What duties were you the least fond of doing?

Ron: That would be standing the night shift (midnight to 8 a.m.). Everybody is sleeping, all there is to do is watch the light go round and round for eight hours.

LSM: Anything you’ve always wanted to tell someone about your time there, but no one has asked?

Ron: We all decided to have a bonfire on the east landing. It took us a full week to get enough wood for our fire. Towards the end of our wood gathering, we could not reach the top of the pile, so we resorted to tossing the wood to the top. Our pile of wood was approximately 15 feet in diameter and 20 feet tall. The evening we all decided on was perfect. The wind was blowing across the island so all of the heat and embers would blow out over the water. We lit the fire using a little fuel oil. The flames shot up 40 feet after it really got going. A good time was had roasting hot dogs and marshmallows. All of a sudden the person that was stuck standing watch came to the fire. We were informed that he received a radio call from the Bayfield Coast Guard Station. Bayfield received a radio call from a passing freighter wondering if the large fire on the east landing was a distress signal. Needless to say we did not put any more wood on the fire.

---

50th Anniversary Events

April 15- May 15: Apostle Islands photo exhibit at the Capitol in Madison.

April 16: Apostle Islands 50th Anniversary Lecture by Ranger Steve Ballou at the Bayfield Carnegie Library.

May 14-16: Chequamegon Bay Birding & Nature Festival (trips in the park, keynote by NPS scientists Peggy Burkman and Ted Gostomski). www.birdandnaturefest.com.

June 13: Little Sand Bay Anniversary gathering, open house and re-opening of visitor center.

July 1-4: Bayfield Race Week in the Apostle Islands (sailboat races).

July 4: Park staff in parades in La Pointe and/or Ashland.

August 6: Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore dinner cruise to Stockton Island.

August 27: 50th Anniversary Celebration (afternoon) and Keeper of the Light performance (evening) at Lake Superior Big Top Chautauqua.

September 8-19: Apostle Islands Lighthouse Celebration featuring special lighthouse cruises. www.lighthousecelebration.com.

September 26: Open House and birthday cake at Apostle Islands National Lakeshore Headquarters

October 2-4: Bayfield Apple Festival (NPS and Friends staff booth and parade float).

For a complete list, go to go.nps.gov/apostle50.

To partner for an event or logo item, see www.friendsoftheapostleislands.org.