Pukaskwa’s Wilderness Wonders

by

Ontario

If you’ve heard about Pukaskwa National Park near Marathon, but have never been, you might picture it big, rugged and dominated by endless vistas of Lake Superior and Canadian Shield landscape that inspired the Group of Seven artists.

All that is true, but if you also picture it only for experienced hikers or kayakers, you need to think again.

The park is not for experts only. This is a great year to get to know Pukaskwa.

Options for first-time visitors

Even if you and your family are inexperienced hikers or paddlers, Pukaskwa offers plenty of accessible wilderness without trekking deep into the backcountry.

As novices, if you plan to stay a couple of hours, half a day or possibly overnight, you’ll want to stick to the front-country trails, beaches and campground at Hattie Cove on the park’s northern tip, about 25 kilometres (16 miles) from Marathon.

You might start with a picnic lunch by Hattie Cove Visitor Centre, then try a hike. An easy one, especially for families with young children, is the Boardwalk Beach Trail, which runs 1.2 kilometres from the visitor centre and takes about 30 minutes. The trail – with 200 metres that’s handicapped-accessible – takes you to Horseshoe Bay to discover sand dunes and beautiful sunsets at the beach.

Another accessible pathway leads visitors from the parking lot to the visitor centre, the Fire Circle, the Anishinaabe Camp entrance, past the day-use washrooms and back to the parking lot.

For a hike with a bit more challenge, park staff member Jennifer Metherel-Potter recommends the Southern Headland Trail. She touts its exceptional views and a set of Parks Canada “red chairs” for fun family photos. At 2.2 kilometres, the trail has views of Hattie Cove, Pulpwood Harbour and Horseshoe Bay. It takes about an hour to hike. Parks Canada launched its “red chair experience” in 2014 to connect people with nature in unique places. The chairs’ locations often have breathtaking views.

If hiking is not your thing, the park suggests these other options:

• Rent standup paddleboards or canoes and spend part of the day in the calm, protected waters of Hattie Cove – perfect for beginners. Pulpwood Harbour, outside Hattie Cove, satisfies the more experienced.

• Hunt for Pukaskwa’s eight geocaches. You can rent GPS devices  at the visitor centre or park kiosk.

• Visit the Anishinaabe Camp at Hattie Cove, with its new wiigwaam and jiibaakwewgamig (or cook tent). Ask about the cultural programs. A grand opening for the revitalized camp will be June 21 with talks from local elders.

Of course, experienced backcountry hikers will find challenges along the difficult terrain of the Coastal Hiking Trail, over steep coastline, soft sand or cobblestone beaches and boreal forests. The stunning White River Gorge is a natural landmark that you can savor and photograph from a suspension bridge – if you’re prepared for a full-day, 18-kilometre hike. This year, a new backcountry loop trail, Mdaabii Miikna, is also open.

Expert paddlers can tackle the demanding Coastal Paddling Route.

Full park services are available generally from mid-May to Labour Day. Contact the park office if you are planning a visit later in the season. The visitor centre is open July through August.

You’ll need a Parks Canada Discovery Pass. Pick one up at the park or online (www.pc.gc.ca). The annual pass is $136  (CDN) for a family, good for all national parks, national historic sites and marine conservation areas. A family day pass, the other option at Pukaskwa, is $14.70 (CDN). There are fees for park activities such as camping, guided tours and hikes and programs not included with admission.

If you and your family want to sample Pukaskwa, though, there’s no better time to see this untouched land. You might even spot a moose.

Pukaskwa Points

  • The park, with 1,878 square kilometres (725 square miles), is the largest mainland park on Lake Superior. Only Isle Royale National Park, made up of islands, covers more area: 2,315 square kilometres (894 square miles).
  • Pukaskwa offers 71.5 kilometres of backcountry along the Coastal Hiking Trail and its new loop trail, Mdaabii Miikna, and about 11 kilometres of front-country trails.
  • In 2016, the park welcomed 9,500 visitors.
  • The Coastal Paddling Route along the park’s 135 kilometres of coastline is the wildest on Lake Superior.

Free Sites for Canada's Sesquicentennial

The Discovery Pass, available at no cost in 2017, can get you into any national park or national historic site across Canada. In the Lake Superior region, besides Pukaskwa National Park, this special year includes:

  • Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site. Watch pleasure boats rise from Lake Huron to Lake Superior, or sail your own boat through the lock. Hike the 2.2-kilometre Attikamek Trail across the lock gates on South St. Marys Island. Rent a fat bike at the canal and explore the trails. Lock operates May 15 to Oct. 15; the visitor centre is open May 15 to Oct. 6. www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/on/ssmarie
  • Fort St. Joseph National Historic Site. Explore the fort’s ruins, view authentic artifacts and learn about the War of 1812. Watch for more than 100 species of birds. Open June 1 to Sept. 30 on St. Joseph Island. www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/on/stjoseph

www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/on/pukaskwa, 807-229-0801