Residents by Lake Superior could get a rare holiday opportunity. Really, if we wanted, we could embrace two Thanksgivings – the Canadian one on October 8 this year (always a Monday) and the American version on November 22 (always a Thursday).
Let’s face it, two Thanksgivings are better than one.
In October, the apples and pears are ripe for the picking; kale, carrots, pumpkins, squash and such are not yet frozen in the ground. Given this bounty, Canadian and American Thanksgiving menus feature similar dishes – turkey, mashers and gravy, lots of squash, wild rice and, on our Ontario shore, perhaps a butter tart in lieu of pumpkin pie. In some Canadian homes, roast beef, pork or ham replace the turkey.
The Canadian Thanksgiving story predates the American tale of a Pilgrim dinner at Plymouth in 1621. Canadians mark the day by honoring the English privateer/explorer Martin Frobisher, who, in search of the Northwest Passage, arrived safely in the New World in 1578. According to the stories, part of the reason Canadians first petitioned for a national Thanksgiving holiday in 1859 was to lay claim to their unique identity and differentiate themselves from both Great Britain and the States.
“Canadians were hashing out what it meant to be Canadian, especially when the U.S. was suffering from a bloody Civil War,” writes Peter A. Stevens, Canadian author and historian. “They wanted a day that spoke to the bounty, and their luck of being Canadian, to celebrate native pride.”
The Civil War was a catalyst for the U.S. holiday, too. President Abraham Lincoln proclaimed the fourth Thursday of November a day of thanksgiving, beginning with November 26, 1863, in part, so the story goes, to thank God for the pivotal victory of the Union Army at Gettysburg. The day and the thanksgiving, though, harkened all the way back to George Washington in 1789. (A little note for Thanksgiving geeks: in 1939 and 1940, the United States celebrated Thanksgiving Day on the third Thursday by presidential proclamation, but due to pressure reverted to the fourth Thursday in 1941).
Canadian and American Thanksgivings, with their emphasis on family gatherings and harvest dinners, look very similar, but the day after might be what makes the difference.
Unlike in the United States, Canadian bargain hunters traditionally didn’t get that Black Friday rush after Thanksgiving, but waited for the specials of Boxing Day, the day after Christmas. These days, though, Black Friday – yes the day after the U.S. holiday – has creeped north, perhaps to keep border shoppers home.
Another after-Thanksgiving difference: the Canadian leftovers may be folded into a French Canadian Tourtière, a savory meat pie.
With or without Friday shopping, I challenge U.S Big Lake residents to celebrate our “inner Canadian” on Monday, October 8, enjoying the harvest season at its peak and then use the leftovers in a traditional meat pie. Where there is so much local bounty, why not give thanks twice.
Squash & Leek Gratin
Squash grows abundantly throughout the Northland and is featured in almost every harvest feast. This hearty dish makes a terrific side and a meatless entrée for vegetarians. Serves 8 to 10.
Ingredients:
1 large or 2 small squash (about 5 lbs.), Use acorn, Kuri or butternut, which is so easy to work with, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks.
2 leeks slit horizontally, trimmed, washed under cold running water, cut into 2-inch chunks (white part only)
4 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 c. dry white wine
1/4 c. Parmesan cheese
1/2 c. toasted breadcrumbs
4 Tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 375° F.
Put the squash, leeks, carrots and onions into a large roasting pan, drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with the nutmeg. Roast the vegetables until tender, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Reduce the heat to 350° F.
Add the rosemary, salt and pepper and the wine to the pan and gently toss together. Sprinkle the vegetables with the Parmesan cheese and the breadcrumbs, then dot with butter. Bake until the vegetables are soft, the cheese is melted and the breadcrumbs are toasted.
Canadian Tourtière
Traditionally, this simple meat pie is baked in a pottery casserole dish called a tourte. The recipe can be assembled a day ahead, then baked right before serving. You can also substitute what Thanksgiving left you. Serves 8 to 10.
Ingredients:
2-1/2 c. unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
10 Tbsp. shortening
6 to 8 Tbsp. ice water
The Filling
Ingredients:
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 c. onions, peeled & chopped
1 clove garlic, smashed
1/2 to 3/4 c. turkey or beef stock
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1-1/2 to 2 lbs. cooked dark-meat turkey or roast beef
1 medium boiling potato
Additional salt and ground black pepper to taste
Instructions:
To make the pastry, sift the dry ingredients together into a large bowl. Cut in the shortening with a pastry cutter, two knives or your finger until the flour and shortening form small peas. Add 6 Tbsp. of water and stir the dough until it forms a ball. Add water if it seems too dry. Divide the dough into two pieces, one slightly larger. The larger piece will be the bottom crust; the smaller piece the top. Shape each into a flattened ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (or overnight).
To make the filling, set a large, deep skillet over medium heat, add 1 Tbsp. of the butter and sauté the onions and garlic until onions are soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock and seasonings, reduce the heat to low. Simmer uncovered until the liquid is reduced by half in 10 to 15 minutes. While the stock is simmering, cook the potato in a small pot of simmering water until just tender. Drain, skin and mash the potato. Stir the cooked meat and potato into the skillet. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 375° F.
You’ll need a 9-inch skillet, deep-dish pie plate or casserole dish at least 1-1/2 inches deep. Roll out the larger piece of dough into a 13-inch circle; gently lift and settle it into the pan. Spoon the filling into the crust, gently patting it flat. Roll the other dough into a 10-inch circle to lay on top. Tuck the overhanging bottom crust over the edge of the top crust, pinching and pressing to seal. Crimp the edge of the crust and then cut four slashes in the center to allow steam to release.
Bake until the crust is golden brown, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the oven and allow the pie to rest for about 10 minutes before serving.
James Beard-winning cookbook author Beth Dooley moonlights as a kayak-guiding cook.
